A ship called ‘La Pausa’ was stationed at Chanel‘s latest resort presentation which was staged at the Grand Palais in Paris, France. The clothes exhibited, however, were not primarily nautical-themed: sailor pants were part of the collection but it really explored the kind of fashion which was influenced by the eighties. The collection incorporated monochrome stripes, double-breasted jackets, a top that was imprinted with the name of the ship ‘La Pausa’ plus a red-colored logo of the French fashion house, ripped jeans, checked items of clothing, a top which featured a print of a ship, quilted handbags and berets. Furthermore, the range of colors which were a part of the collection included white, blue and pink.
The 2019 Resort collection at Emporio Armani might have only included nineteen pieces but the clothes could be worn around the clock: from at work to at evening gatherings. Some of the materials which were a part of the collection were duchesse, denim, jacquard, chiffon and taffeta. Also, the colors used in the collection ranged from red to blue. What I particularly liked about the collection were its presentation of coats and jackets, such as a gleaming one which was paired with a pair of dark blue shorts; they would be perfect for the upcoming season – autumn, because it includes a weather which is a mix of both hot and cold weather.
The womenswear presentation by Dsquared2, as part of their collection for Resort 2019, had the air of a juvenile delinquent which was what the founders of the Canadian label were a little bit of in their younger days. Personal and attractive-looking, the collection went from strength to strength with everything it had to display, the nature of which was amusingly lacking of diversity but still making it up with traditionality.
The two’s ideas of fashion at times seemed kindled by clothes that traditionally only members of the armed forces would wear and also daywear that looked like it really could also be worn to glam evenings. Some of the colors explored were red, white, olive drab and black, as chiffon, poplin, wool, lace, leather and mesh mixed with minimalist designs which were mostly meant for people who are able to showcase the true impact of attractive grit with their characters.
Camp culture was explored on the runway by the founder of Comme des Garcons, Rei Kawakubo and it was interesting because the collection was overwhelmingly beautiful and not really representative of the fashion idea that it is so bad but that is why it’s good. Inspired by an essay by Susan Sontag that was first published in the Partisan Review in 1964 called Notes on Camp, the ready-to-wear collection for fall was packed with displays of tulle, crinoline and net, amongst other materials and in short, was nothing more than overdone fashion in a range of colors, from red to golden.
What the collection certainly does is portray the idea that looking camp also mean looking good – that it is not an ugly fashion sentiment. But the Comme des Garcons collection is still just too beautiful for any absolute need to have a culturally different perspective of beauty – the featuring of Betty Boop, layers, polka dots, reinvented gingham and ballerina tutu amongst other designs ensured that the fashion was eccentric but still really attractive.
The latest collection from Alexander McQueen is a stylistic exploration of the grim transformation of a cocoon into a charming butterfly; much of this collection was an accurate depiction of the darkness associated with that grim process because the primary colours in the show were red and black.
It was brilliant to witness an avoidance of drab in tailored clothes at Alexander McQueen and an absorption of a minimal edition of excess instead – very typical to the British label’s motto in fashion. Ravishing panels, tailcoats, the presence of sophisticated lace and also dresses with abstract butterfly imprints created a paradisical collection – more loudly magnetic than anything else.
This season at Christian Dior, Musée Rodin in Paris served as the setting for the catwalk collection of the luxury label to be showcased. Also, rights for women was explored in an entirely décor-capacity: reminders of the reform-minded protests which were carried out at the Left Bank in the late ’60s was all around the collection – posters of protests, covers of magazines, plus slogans, covered both the floors and the walls for the fashion show.
The autumn-winter collection displayed fashion exclusively from the sixties: patchworks and embroideries, featured amongst tulle. Meanwhile, the accessories sported an offbeat look, with the presence of balaclavas, and then surprisingly turned a combo of traditional and modern with the inclusion of clogs that had studs on them; the colour palette was unique too, jumping from boring blues to muddy greens.
Halloween means feeling scared and celebrating all that terrifies: you or something that just sounds like it would. And there is no better way to experience all of that than with books which have the capacity to grip, entrall, and yet make you feel very, very afraid…
Andrew Michael Hurley’s latest book is like a breath of fresh air: a horror piece about saving all the sheep in a farm from the Devil. Every year, it used to be so, that the Gaffer, along with resketching the village boundaries (ink-wise) would observe a remembrance of stories and communal customs, which would keep the animals safe. But with the Gaffer’s death, the farmers of the village are in doubt over if they can do just the same. There is also an interesting arc thrown in over the Gaffer’s grandson, John Pentecost and his wife Katherine, in the book, but what sets this book apart is that the fiction can both scare and marvel, in part because of the Endlands landscape the story is based in, simultaneously.
Film critic, journalist and fiction writer Kim Newman’s first in the series is an alternate history piece, which smells remarkably like Victorian England, except that vampires lurk everywhere and particularly in the highest echleons of English society. The vampires commit deeds that are considered normal by human standards, such as acting oppressive, playing power games and such, which add dimensions to the beings; characters, both real and fictional, from the Victoria era also appear in the book with entirely new stories. What’s most remarkable about the work, it almost goes without saying, is that it chose to take out a very rich and colourful piece of history, and recreate it in an entirely new chilling avatar, and yet it all sounds and feels very much alive and real, making it a tale that’s (surprisingly) gripping.
Eight Ghosts: The English Heritage Book of New Ghost Stories
This Halloween, English Heritage decided to publish a book based on the accounts of numerous authors, all dispatched to live in several of its historic sites. What each of them brought back was a tale that could chill to the bone, in the most breathtaking of all locales, from Eltham Palace to Dover Castle; very timely and a befitting ode to the supernatural airs of historic places!