Alexis Mabille’s latest couture collection is a visual representation of a woman’s scent: twenty soirée dresses dabbling in more-or-less soft colours is a presentation of the French designer’s curiosity with notes of scents. Mabille’s opening line was with a black blouson, covered with gold lamé flowers, which were sculpted in nature and had jewel-studs in their centers – this was a visual representation of the fragrance notes bergamot, tonka and opoponax. Other fragrance notes which inspired the collection, range from carnation to musk, and the fragrances are all colour-matched for the outfits.
The collection switched from muted (but gorgeous) looks to pure drama, especially for Mabille’s reinterpretation of a Scarlett O’Hara (the protagonist in Gone With The Wind) gown manufactured in midnight blue satin (for the piping alone) and white/nude sheer pleated tulle (in graduated layered form); the dress also sported an off-the-shoulder cut and, to me, it looked every bit like the dress could be grouped together with the overtly-dramatic scarlet satin opera cape, with its stiff bows of red and pink.
A more wearable alternative to the cape was, the personal favourite, red bustier mini dress, with engulfing red/pink ostrich feathers. Inspired by the fragrance notes of peonies were two outfits: the soft pink dress, which boasted a crisscrossed neckline, and the relaxed but dramatic red dress, with big sleeves of red/pink pleated organza layers, which was also inspired by geraniums. Meanwhile, the metallic creations, such as the striking brocade coatdress, was inspired by verbena and ginger and they all looked very delicately gleaming and sensational.