Alexander McQueen was inspired by Dorian Gray this season. Oscar Wilde’s solemn character from the classic masterpiece The Picture of Dorian Gray, bore good news for fashion this season, because McQueen’s collection was both formidable and dapper. All of the peacocky designs in numerous shades and materials, created an atmosphere far away from all the sportswear inspiration that seems to have gripped menswear.
The colour and palette, cannot be positively described enough number of times, because it was unusual: restrained and peachy, while at other times a heavenly blue, with white, grey, bronze and golden popping up here and there.
A geometrical Klimt-like two-piece suit, a gold blouson, tuxedos, a texturally heavy croc blazer, long and light overcoats, monochromatic three-piece suits, sometimes lined with barely traceable micro-dots, the Prince of Wales check all gave the collection a panache of 20th Century travel.
Some of the looks sported colour-blocked wide lapels, patchwork in gold, a cicada wing pattern on a trench coat in black and white, Art Deco butterflies and silk pocket squares, demonstrating the details that went into manufacturing all of the garments.
Accessories included Panama hats, dancing shoes and tasseled slippers. There was an aura of a time when young gentlemen would be sent abroad to mature before coming of age.
Male vanity was echoing around the looks as well, which is true to the novel’s underlining theme about a man’s obsession with everlasting beauty and a purpose to explore all sensations, primarily involving lust.
McQueen seems to have fallen in love with the pursuit of a world of extreme beauty, effortlessly trailing from one to another, as like Dorian Gray, when his addiction to opium would fire up. The trademark look of the entire collection has to be a tailored coat lined in kimono silk – a product of the British fashion house’s collaboration with Savile Row.