ACNE chose to be country-western. Well-principled clothes with bold statements such as “MUSIC” and “COLLAGE” – that’s all capitals for you, were etched across some of the T-shirts, acting as a subtle alliance between the hard-rock music soundtrack of the show; at one point Neil Young’s “Wrecking Ball” was playing, as was Swedish super-pop group Abba’s “Dancing Queen”.
The cult brand which has taken the fashion world by storm, belted out an impressive lineup of clothes for London Fashion Week, with the ever important theme of music present as an influence. Jockeys (two-coloured jackets, as well as trousers), cowgirls (Stetson hats in latex) merged with feisty charm. There were the usual parachute of gowns, fitted leather waistcoats, skirts with a thigh-high split, motifs composed of leather and buckles.
Some coveted ideas certainly were the pieces in a Robin Hood-colour that were showcased – very unique, bold, and yet true to the country-western charm. Black and cream, bands were present in some of the designs, as were buckles spliced across calves, waists,, and just about everywhere else in graphic horizontals.
What was totally surprising to see was: kilts and leather bondage, because it was interesting to see how the two could fit in really in the overarching sense of country-western everywhere – even the shoes were a retro edition of Swedish Hasbeens – straps and buckles going all the way to the calves.
Jonny Johansson, the creative helm of ACNE (which reads as Ambition to Create Novel Expression), handcrafted the programme notes, which included more of the country-western atmospherics. The Swedish designer elaborated on his inspiration for the show, that music to him is about a particular girl – aesthetically she is rustic and unraveled, favouring billowing parachute skirts, raw-hemmed poetic blouses and precision-engineered stripes.
Romanticism, as aptly stated by Johansson, is the essence of this collection and it can be explored in so many ways, from the usually expected flounced cuffs to the more off-beat stripey off the shoulder looks.